Ancient Remedies for Baldness Around the World
For as long as people have grown hair, they’ve worried about losing it. Pharaohs wore wigs, emperors hid thinning crowns under laurel wreaths, monks wrote herbal recipes between prayers, and healers from India to the Andes simmered oils and roots with hope in the pot. Some of those ideas were pure superstition. Others hinted at biology that modern science is finally catching up with. If you’re curious about what our ancestors tried, what might still be useful, and how to safely put historical wisdom to work today, this tour is for you.
Why Hair Loss Was Such a Big Deal—And What Ancient Healers Were Up Against
Hair signals age, vitality, status, and identity. Losing it changes how we feel about ourselves and how others read us. Ancient cultures cared as much as we do, but they didn’t have microscopes to see hair follicles or hormones. They had observation and tradition.
To understand their remedies, it helps to know a few basics. Most people with progressive thinning have androgenetic alopecia (male or female pattern hair loss). It’s driven by genetics and hormones—especially dihydrotestosterone (DHT)—which miniaturizes follicles over time. Others face autoimmune patterns like alopecia areata, where the immune system attacks follicles, or scarring alopecias, where inflammation destroys follicles permanently. There’s also telogen effluvium (stress or illness-triggered shedding) and traction alopecia (tension from hairstyles).
What could ancient recipes realistically affect?
- Inflammation: Many natural oils and herbs calm irritated skin.
- Microcirculation: Massage and warming herbs can nudge blood flow.
- Microbes: Some plant compounds fight fungi and bacteria that aggravate the scalp.
- Hair shaft health: Occlusive oils reduce breakage and improve appearance.
They couldn’t fix genes or block DHT powerfully, but they often cared for the scalp ecosystem—sometimes the difference between fragile, shedding hair and healthier growth.
Egypt and Mesopotamia: Oils, Fats, and Wigs That Meant Business
When we picture ancient Egypt, we think wigs, and for good reason. Egyptians shaved for hygiene and wore elaborate wigs for status. Still, they recorded dozens of scalp recipes. The Ebers Papyrus (c. 1550 BCE) lists animal fats (from lion, hippo, crocodile, cat, ibex) rubbed onto the scalp. By modern standards, this sounds outlandish. In context, fat was a carrier—an emollient base—helping active ingredients stick and soften the skin.
They also used plant oils. Castor oil (kiki oil) was a staple. It’s rich in ricinoleic acid, which is anti-inflammatory and highly occlusive. While there’s no strong evidence that castor oil grows new hair, it can reduce breakage and soothe irritated scalps. My take: as a protective layer before harsh sun and sand, it made sense.
Egyptian ritual and cosmetic care mattered too. Henna was used to condition and strengthen strands. Perfumed conical “unguent” waxes worn on the head likely melted slowly, scenting and lubricating hair. And yes, wigs were practical. A well-made wig solved baldness overnight. Many modern readers overlook how smart that was.
Across the Fertile Crescent, Mesopotamian texts mention “sacred oils” and resins like myrrh and cedar. Sesame oil was prized. Sesame contains sesamin and sesamolin—antioxidants that can help protect scalp skin. If you’ve ever massaged warm sesame oil into a dry scalp on a cold day, you get why it stuck around.
Common mistake then and now: applying unidentified animal fat or rancid oil. It clogs pores and feeds microbes. If you experiment, use fresh, food-grade oils and keep the scalp clean.
Greece and Rome: Between Logic and Lore
The Greeks and Romans gave us rational medicine—and some spectacular misses. Hippocrates reportedly prescribed a blend that included opium, cumin, horseradish, and pigeon droppings for baldness. Pliny the Elder recommended charred mice and dog urine. None of that helps, and much of it could harm.
But they also relied on olive oil infusions with bay (laurel), rosemary, and nettle. Here’s where things get interesting. Rosemary has real data: a 2015 controlled trial found 1% rosemary oil performed as well as 2% minoxidil over six months for androgenetic alopecia, with fewer itchy side effects. Nettle is anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Olive oil is rich in squalene and phenols; it’s not a growth stimulant but an excellent carrier that improves scalp comfort.
Romans used amurca (the dregs of olive oil) in remedies, probably because it contained concentrated plant compounds. They also massaged vigorously. Scalp massage won’t regrow hair on a fully bald scalp, but a small 2016 study suggested that 4 minutes of daily scalp massage over 24 weeks thickened hair in some participants (likely by mechanically stimulating follicles and improving blood flow). I’ve kept a two-minute massage habit for years; it’s not magic, but it complements everything else.
Julius Caesar favored a wreath to disguise his receding hairline—a timeless move. Grooming and styling have always been part of the toolkit.
South Asia: Ayurveda and Unani Craft a Whole-Body Approach
Ayurveda described hair as a byproduct of bone metabolism, influenced by doshas (Vata, Pitta, Kapha). Excess Pitta (heat) was said to burn hair. Whether you buy the framework or not, Ayurvedic hair care is sophisticated and still widely used.
Classic keshya (hair-promoting) herbs:
- Bhringraj (Eclipta alba): Animal studies show it can prolong the anagen (growth) phase and increase follicle count. Clinically, I’ve seen it calm inflamed scalps as an oil.
- Amla (Indian gooseberry): Extremely high in vitamin C and tannins; antioxidant and mildly antimicrobial. Great in oils or rinses.
- Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri) and Jatamansi (Nardostachys jatamansi): Used to calm the nervous system; stress matters for telogen effluvium.
- Methi (fenugreek): Used as pastes and infusions; contains saponins and phytoestrogens. Anecdotally reduces shedding in some women, but watch for smell and skin sensitivity.
Ayurvedic oils are typically sesame or coconut based, simmered with herbs and then massaged into the scalp (abhyanga). The ritual lowers stress, and the emollients protect the scalp-skin barrier.
Unani (Greco-Arabic medicine) and Persian traditions intersected here. Feeds included:
- Black seed (Nigella sativa) oil: Thymoquinone is anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Small studies and case reports hint at benefits for patchy alopecia, especially alongside corticosteroids for alopecia areata.
- Henna: Cooling, antimicrobial, and conditioning when used properly.
- Saffron, licorice, and asafetida: Occasionally included in topical pastes for circulation and inflammation.
Practical caution from experience: Ayurvedic oils stain fabric, and some pastes cause dermatitis if left too long. Start with a once-weekly night treatment and a patch test. Also, herbal supplements like Bhringraj or licorice can interact with medications—check with a clinician.
China, Korea, and Japan: Nourishing “Blood,” Tonifying Essence, and Comb Therapy
Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) ties hair to the health of “Blood” and “Kidney essence.” In practice, that means improving nutrient flow and reducing internal stressors. Common agents:
- He Shou Wu (Polygonum multiflorum, Fo-Ti): Famous for hair darkening and growth. There are many case reports of liver toxicity from oral He Shou Wu, especially with processed forms or overdosing. Topical use is safer but less studied. If you consider oral use, do it under professional supervision and get periodic liver tests. Personally, I avoid oral He Shou Wu for this reason.
- Dang Gui (Angelica sinensis) and Rehmannia: Used in blood-building formulas, sometimes combined with ginseng.
- Fresh ginger rubs: Warming and circulation-boosting. Ginger can irritate—dilute and patch test.
A traditional practice I love is comb therapy: slow, firm strokes with a horn or wooden comb to stimulate the scalp. It’s a mechanical massage with less friction than fingers, and it fits easily into a nightly wind-down routine.
Japan’s Kampo system adapted many TCM formulas. Topically, camellia (tsubaki) oil conditioned hair and protected the cuticle—still a wonderful finishing oil today. Seaweed rinses (rich in minerals and polysaccharides) helped with shine and scalp hydration. In Korea, red ginseng appears in both teas and topicals; limited human data suggests potential reduction in hair shedding.
The Islamic Golden Age and North Africa: Manuals, Massages, and Black Seed Wisdom
Medieval physicians like Avicenna (Ibn Sina) cataloged alopecia and wrote methodical guidance. Recommendations included:
- Scalp massage with olive, almond, or sweet flag-infused oils to “open pores” (read: improve circulation and sebum flow).
- Black seed—“remedy for every illness except death,” according to a famous saying—applied or taken to modulate inflammation.
- Safflower and sesame oils for dryness and to soften scale.
- Sidr (lote tree) leaves and soapwort as natural cleansers; these are gentle surfactants that clean without stripping.
North African traditions incorporated henna and argan oil. Argan’s high oleic and linoleic acid content supports barrier repair—a godsend for flaky scalps. As a writer who’s trialed dozens of oils, I rank argan among the least comedogenic and most tolerable for daily use on the scalp ends and hair shafts.
Sub-Saharan Africa: Protection First, With Powerful Plant Butters
In many African communities, the focus wasn’t forcing growth; it was protecting hair from breakage and traction. That philosophy is smart. Dry, coily hair needs occlusion and low manipulation.
Key materials:
- Shea butter: Rich in stearic and oleic acids with cinnamic esters that may be anti-inflammatory. Fantastic on hair shafts; use lightly on the scalp if you’re prone to folliculitis.
- Castor oil: Particularly the “black” variant popularized in the Caribbean, made by roasting and ash-alkalizing castor beans before pressing. It’s thick, holds moisture, and can be great for edges, but patch test to avoid contact dermatitis.
- Palm kernel and baobab oils: Emollient and antioxidant.
- Chebe powder (Chad): A mix that typically includes lavender croton seeds, cloves, and resin, used with oils to keep hair moisturized for weeks. It reduces breakage, which can create the impression of faster growth.
Big lesson from my own clients: much hair loss in African diaspora communities is traction alopecia from tight braids, locs, or ponytails. The “remedy” is hairstyle modification plus gentle scalp care—historical emollients help, but you can’t out-oil a tight install. Early traction damage is reversible; late-stage scarring is not.
Indigenous Americas: Cleansing Roots, Quieting Scalps
Indigenous practices across the Americas were diverse, but several patterns emerge:
- Yucca root shampoos: Yucca is rich in saponins—natural soaps that clean without harsh detergents. Great for itchy scalps.
- Sage and cedar rinses: Antimicrobial and calming.
- Bear grease or animal fat: Emollient and protective in harsh climates.
- Saw palmetto (Serenoa repens): Used traditionally for urinary and reproductive issues by Southeastern tribes. Modern research suggests it mildly inhibits 5-alpha-reductase (the enzyme that makes DHT). Clinical studies are mixed but indicate modest improvement for some men with androgenetic alopecia.
- Aloe vera: Used by Mesoamerican cultures as a skin soother; it’s still one of my favorite ways to quiet a flare of seborrheic dermatitis.
- Pumpkin seed oil: While not an “ancient” hair treatment per se, pumpkins are native, and a 2014 randomized trial found that 400 mg/day pumpkin seed oil increased hair count by about 40% in men with pattern hair loss over 24 weeks versus placebo.
These traditions leaned into gentle cleansing and scalp comfort—an approach that pairs well with modern actives.
Medieval and Early Modern Europe: Herbals, Vinegars, and Barbers
European monastic herbals preserved recipes that feel surprisingly modern:
- Rosemary water rinses (“rosemary for remembrance—and hair”).
- Nettle and burdock root decoctions for the scalp.
- Horsetail (Equisetum) rich in silica for hair shafts, usually as teas or rinses.
- Beer (yeast and hops) for shine; not a growth treatment, but useful as a conditioning rinse.
There were also eyebrow-raising ideas: sulfur-lime applications, goose grease, even mercury compounds. Skip those. The barbershop was a central hub; barbers did everything from bloodletting to scalp treatments. One genuinely useful carryover is the tonic massage—firm, rhythmic kneading that warms the scalp.
A practical rinse from this era that I still recommend: apple cider vinegar diluted 1:3 with water after shampooing. It balances scalp pH and dissolves residue. Avoid if your scalp is cracked or very sensitive.
The Pacific and Oceania: Coconut Wisdom and Hibiscus Sleek
Polynesian and Melanesian knowledge prioritized sun, salt, and wind protection:
- Coconut oil: Penetrates the hair shaft and reduces protein loss—shown in modern studies. On the scalp, it’s antimicrobial but can be comedogenic for some. I prefer it from mid-lengths to ends, and a lighter oil (argan, squalane) on the scalp.
- Monoi (coconut infused with tiare flowers): Adds slip and reduces friction.
- Hibiscus leaves and flowers: The mucilage forms a slippery gel that detangles and coats hair, reducing breakage.
- Tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) oil: Anti-inflammatory; helpful for flaky patches when used sparingly.
Maori traditions used flax (harakeke) gel similarly to hibiscus—excellent for moisture retention and a healthy curl pattern.
What Ancient Remedies Might Actually Help—Backed by Modern Clues
From hundreds of historical notions, a handful have plausible evidence or a strong mechanistic rationale. Here’s how I rank them for most people, balancing tradition, science, and safety:
Most practical and reasonably supported:
- Rosemary essential oil (diluted to about 1%): Comparable to 2% minoxidil at six months in a small trial; good tolerability.
- Scalp massage (2–5 minutes daily): Low risk, may thicken hair over months.
- Pumpkin seed oil (oral, 400 mg/day): A 2014 RCT showed a significant hair count increase in men with mild to moderate pattern loss.
- Onion juice (topical): A 2002 small study on alopecia areata found 86.9% regrowth with onion juice vs 13% with tap water over 6 weeks. The smell is real, and irritation is possible.
- Black seed (Nigella sativa) oil: Anti-inflammatory; promising case series for patchy hair loss; works best as an adjunct.
- Yucca or gentle herbal shampoos: Maintain scalp balance without stripping.
- Amla and Bhringraj oils: Excellent for scalp comfort and shaft protection; animal data suggests growth support.
Potentially helpful but more mixed or limited data:
- Saw palmetto (oral or topical): Mild DHT inhibition; modest benefits in some men; watch for gastrointestinal side effects and potential interactions.
- Peppermint essential oil (1% dilution): Mouse data suggest it can be as effective as or better than 3% minoxidil; human data is lacking. Can be irritating; patch test.
- Ginger rubs (diluted): Warming and circulation-enhancing, but irritation risk is higher than rosemary.
Use with caution:
- He Shou Wu (Fo-Ti): Possible benefit but real risk of liver injury when taken orally. Avoid unsupervised use.
- Any undiluted essential oil: High risk of dermatitis.
Useless or harmful:
- Animal droppings, urine, and mercury/mineral concoctions from antiquity. Hard pass.
A quick reality check. No herb or oil rivals the hair-regrowing power of modern medications like minoxidil and finasteride for androgenetic alopecia. But historical remedies can improve scalp health, enhance hair quality, and in some cases support regrowth—especially for inflammatory or stress-related shedding.
A Practical 8-Week Routine Inspired by History
Think of this as a structured experiment, not a promise. If you have rapid, patchy loss, scarring, or scalp pain, see a dermatologist first.
Week 0: Setup and patch testing
- Buy high-quality ingredients: cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil capsules (400 mg), food-grade coconut or sesame oil, argan oil, black seed oil, dried rosemary and nettle, rosemary essential oil, mild shampoo, and apple cider vinegar.
- Patch test oils and onion juice: apply a small amount inside your forearm for 24–48 hours. If any redness, itching, or swelling occurs, skip that ingredient.
- Take clear baseline photos: front, top, sides, crown under consistent lighting.
Weeks 1–2: Calm the scalp and establish rhythm
- Daily: 2–4 minutes of gentle scalp massage, focusing on thin areas. Use fingertips or a wooden comb.
- Every other evening: Apply a thin layer of a scalp oil blend: 1 tablespoon argan or sesame oil + 3–4 drops rosemary essential oil (about 1%). Massage in, leave for 2–3 hours, then wash with a gentle shampoo.
- Twice weekly: Herbal rinse. Simmer 2 cups water with 1 tablespoon dried rosemary and 1 tablespoon dried nettle for 10 minutes. Cool, strain, and pour over scalp after shampooing. Let sit for 3 minutes, then rinse lightly.
- Start pumpkin seed oil: 400 mg daily with food (confirm with your clinician if you’re on other meds).
- Lifestyle: Aim for at least 60–70 grams of protein daily, iron-rich foods if you’re low-risk, and manage stress (breathwork or a walk is fine).
Weeks 3–4: Add targeted actives
- Maintain massage and oil blend twice weekly.
- Onion juice twice weekly for patchy areas or diffuse thinning: Blend a small onion, strain juice, dab onto scalp with a cotton pad. Leave 20 minutes, then shampoo. If you can’t stand the smell, skip it or try black seed oil on those spots instead.
- Optional: Switch one oil session to a black seed oil application (light coat), especially if your scalp is itchy or you have small smooth patches.
- Shampoo schedule: 2–4 times weekly, depending on scalp oiliness. End one wash per week with a diluted apple cider vinegar rinse (1:3 with water). Avoid if your scalp is irritated.
Weeks 5–6: Evaluate and refine
- Check progress photos. Improvements to look for: less shedding in the shower, reduced itch/flaking, slightly thicker “miniaturized” hairs at the hairline, and improved shine. Regrowth typically appears as short, soft “baby hairs.”
- If tolerating well, increase rosemary oil applications to three times weekly. Keep massage daily.
- Continue pumpkin seed oil. If you notice stomach upset, take with dinner or pause and reassess.
Weeks 7–8: Consolidate gains
- Stick with what works: for many, that’s massage, rosemary oil 2–3x/week, one black seed or onion session weekly, and the herbal rinse.
- Consider a professional add-on: low-level laser therapy device or microneedling under guidance if you’re open to modern tools. Microneedling isn’t ancient, but it echoes the old idea of controlled stimulation and has good evidence when combined with topicals.
If you see no change at eight weeks, don’t assume nothing will work. Some patterns, especially androgenetic alopecia, need 4–6 months for visible results. But it’s a good point to review with a clinician and consider adding proven medications.
Common Mistakes I See—and How to Avoid Them
- Going neat with essential oils: Undiluted rosemary, peppermint, or ginger can burn your scalp. Keep it around 1% in a carrier oil and patch test.
- Expecting overnight miracles: Hair grows about 1–1.25 cm per month. Allow at least 12–16 weeks to judge.
- Doing too much at once: When you stack five new ingredients, you can’t tell what causes irritation or works. Add one element every two weeks.
- Ignoring traction: Protective styles are only protective if they’re loose. If your edges hurt, it’s too tight.
- Overwashing with harsh detergents: Stripping the scalp triggers rebound oiliness and irritation. Use gentle shampoos and herbal rinses to balance.
- Skipping nutrition: Low ferritin (iron stores), vitamin D deficiency, and inadequate protein are classic hair-breakers. If you’re shedding heavily, ask for labs.
- Using trendy powders without understanding them: Chebe and similar mixes reduce breakage; they don’t force follicles into growth. Expect healthier length retention, not sudden new hairs.
When to See a Professional
- Sudden, patchy bald spots or coin-sized areas (possible alopecia areata)
- Scalp pain, redness, or scaling with hair loss (could be scarring alopecia or fungus)
- Diffuse shedding after illness or childbirth that doesn’t improve by 6 months
- Family history of early or severe balding and you want aggressive prevention
- You’re considering medications like minoxidil, finasteride, or low-level laser therapy
Modern tools are allies, not enemies of tradition. For many clients, the winning plan is minoxidil plus a gentle, historical care routine: massage, rosemary oil, and anti-inflammatory supports like black seed or amla. Finasteride or dutasteride can be game-changers for men with significant androgenetic loss; women may use spironolactone under supervision. Combining approaches often beats any single remedy.
Sourcing, Quality, and Safety
- Oils: Choose cold-pressed, single-ingredient products from reputable brands. Look for harvest dates and dark bottles. Rancid oil smells like crayons—throw it out.
- Essential oils: Buy from suppliers who provide GC/MS testing for purity. Store capped and away from heat.
- Herbs: Organic dried herbs for rinses are ideal. Avoid powders with unknown additives.
- Supplements: Pumpkin seed oil and saw palmetto can interact with medications. If you’re on blood thinners or have hormone-related conditions, talk to your doctor.
- He Shou Wu: If you still want to try it orally, work with a licensed practitioner and monitor liver enzymes. I don’t recommend casual use.
- Sustainability: Argan and saw palmetto harvesting can strain ecosystems. Buy from companies that support local communities and sustainable practices.
Respecting Culture While Borrowing Wisely
So much hair wisdom comes from communities that developed these practices out of necessity and ingenuity. If you adopt a tradition like Ayurvedic oiling or a Chadian chebe regimen, acknowledge its source and, when possible, support artisans and growers from those communities. Share credit when you share results.
What History Teaches About Hair
Across time and continents, a few themes repeat:
- Protect the scalp: Oils and butters shield skin and reduce irritation.
- Stimulate gently: Massage, warming herbs, and comb therapy wake up microcirculation without trauma.
- Keep it clean, not stripped: Natural cleansers and acidic rinses maintain a healthy microbiome and barrier.
- Manage stress and nourish: Rituals soothe, and food quality shows up on the head.
- Style smart: Wigs, hats, and creative cuts have always been valid, immediate solutions.
The ancients didn’t have DHT blockers, but they figured out a lot about caring for the ecosystem that hair depends on. Blend their best ideas with modern evidence, be consistent for months—not days—and you’ll give your hair the conditions it needs to do its best.
A Simple Reference Recipe Kit
- Rosemary oil scalp blend: 1 tablespoon argan or sesame oil + 3–4 drops rosemary essential oil (about 1%). Massage 2–3x/week.
- Black seed spot serum: 1 teaspoon black seed oil + 1 teaspoon argan oil. Dab on inflamed patches nightly for a week, then 3x/week.
- Herbal rinse: Simmer 2 cups water with 1 tablespoon rosemary + 1 tablespoon nettle for 10 minutes. Cool and strain. Use after shampoo, 1–2x/week.
- Onion juice: Blend and strain a small onion; apply for 20 minutes, then shampoo, 1–2x/week (patch test first).
- Pumpkin seed oil: 400 mg capsule daily with food (check with your clinician).
Final Thoughts from the Trenches
When I started testing historical hair practices years ago, I expected most to be charming but useless. A surprising number have a place—especially for calming angry scalps and supporting hair that’s struggling but not lost. The trick is to be methodical: introduce one change at a time, track your photos, and give each experiment a fair window. And don’t be shy about blending eras. A modern minoxidil foam can happily coexist with your grandmother’s rosemary rinse.
Hair grows in cycles, and so does wisdom. The best routine is the one you’ll keep—grounded in evidence where we have it, respectful of tradition where it shines, and tailored to your head rather than the internet’s.